Autumn

Last week we went a walk from Kilmahog to the base of Ben Ledi following cycle pathways and forestry roads. On the drive there we took the "scenic" route from Aberfoyle to Callander and had to stop at the side of the road, the views were just amazing! I thought I'd share just a snapshot of these. I love this time of year, everything is so crisp and the colours are so alive. Hope you're having a good Autumn!

Ben Ledi

There is a point in the Scottish summer where you give up waiting for a "nice day" and decide to go a proper walk whatever the weather. The day had come and we decided we were up for the challenge of Ben Ledi. We even brought waterproof trousers...

Just past Callander the start of the walk can be found off the A84. We pulled in at the sign for Strathyre Forest Cabins and parked in the carpark to the left when over the bridge. There is a rough map and information board in the car park about Ben Ledi. The walk starts along the path you've just driven, next to the bridge. Then head upwards through what was once woodland but is now felled apocalyptic type land. The path is very clear for most of the walk and involves some steep steps and strenuous climbing.

We regularly passed other walkers (well, other walkers regularly overtook us...) which helped make the path clear. From the start of the walk beautiful views of Loch Lubnaig and across Callander are clear. You quickly gain height on this climb and soon we were inside a cloud. Luckily the weather wasn't too bad for us and there was only some drizzly rain with some strong winds, but the fog was very thick the further up the hill you ascend. At this point it was difficult to judge how high we were or how far we had to walk, this possibly being a good thing. There are a number of false summits but the path continued to be clear. We continued on and finally noticed the cross, a memorial which is very close to the summit. Spotting the cross through the fog was an eerie moment and something I can imagine featuring in a Gothic Victorian novel. Keep going a very short distance and you will come to the cairn and trig point which mark the mountain's peak. Here we had a brief stop and took a picture. Unfortunately, at this point we had no view, but from photos and other people's descriptions I believe that on a clear day the view is stunning with vistas including Ben Lomond, the Arrochar Alps and all the way to the Wallace Monument and Stirling.

Heading back we retraced our steps down the hill. It was a relief to get out of the strong winds and fog of the summit and emerge to the views of the loch below. Altogether this is one of the most challenging hills we have walked and probably the highest (at 879m according to google). Although a very popular and accessible mountain many people we passed had sticks and proper walking equipment. Even if the weather seems nice I think things could quickly change on Ben Ledi and I'd recommend taking some extra water, snacks and possibly some waterproof trousers. After this climb my legs ached for a good 2 days but it was worth it.

 The Facts on Ben Ledi:

• We started from the car park just to the left of the bridge at the Strathyre Forest Cabins turn off (just outside of Callander).
• There weren't any toilets in the carpark but there are free ones in Callander. 
• Walking at a steady pace this walk altogether took us around 5 hours.
• According to my pedometer (ooo technical!) I done around 20,000 steps/ 14.5km.
• Difficult points: Throughout the walk there are steep sections and on the hill side we walked up a small burn which had a lot of loose stones. Walking back down I slipped once due to wet slab stones. The walk is also quite long.
• Wear: Weather appropriate clothing. Hill walking boots, jackets, possibly sticks if you use them.
• Perfect for someone wanting a challenge and, on a good day, a beautiful view. There were also a number of mountain bikers up the hill when we were there. 

For further information on Ben Ledi I'd recommend this page.

Glenbranter

Looking back on the trips my mum and I took in 2014 one thing is very clear, the weather was much nicer! This year, while the rest of Europe has been suffering a heatwave, Scotland has been consistently dreich. To accommodate the weather we have had to change our usual summer days of open hill walks, beachside strolls and island hopping to more sheltered trips.  Today we dressed up in our waterproof trousers and set off on a woodland walk at Glenbranter.

This walk can be as long or short as you like with numerous paths that intertwine, all guided by coloured posts. We decided on the path which leads past the waterfalls and takes in some views of the surrounding mountains. I didn't know much about this walk prior to setting off (we only really decided on it when we were driving by) but was impressed with the interesting, twisting paths and waterfalls which get bigger with every turn.

There is a signpost to Glenbranter from the main road and a carpark with rangers centre and toilets so perfect for an easy family walk, even in the rain.

 The Facts on Glenbranter:

• We started from the events car park just past the rangers centre. 
• There are also toilets at the rangers centre.
• Walking at a leisurely pace this walk took us just over an hour. 
• Each walk is different but the distance for the route we chose was around 4km.
• Difficult points: Some bits were slightly muddy but it was raining when we were there. Nothing too tricky!
• Wear: Weather appropriate clothing. No need for specialist clothes.
• Perfect for anyone, from dogwalkers and families to cyclists (there is a longer cycle path here too).

If you're looking for some more information on Glenbranter I'd recommend this page. 

Dun na Cuaiche, Inveraray

When driving out of Inveraray with the castle to your left and the loch to your right have a look up to the hill and you will notice a monument like a small watch tower on the top. Inveraray is one of my favourite places for a day trip so last Sunday my mum and I decided to take a walk up to the monument.

We parked in the castle car park (it's £2 but it gives you £2 off the cafe and as we always need to stop for some cake this was a bargain!) and walked past the castle, over the stone bridge and towards the woodland. There are clear blue signs from this point that lead you up to the monument. This isn't a long walk and is only slightly steep so no specialist training needed for this one! Once at the top there are gorgeous views of Inveraray, Loch Shira and the surrounding hills.

If you're visiting the castle (or even if you're not) I recommend this as a nice afternoon stroll with some impressive views.

Puck's Glen

A couple of weekends ago my mum and I made a trip to Puck's Glen. It is slightly further than we usually travel for walks but had heard it was worth the journey. Puck's Glen is a beautiful walk through atmospheric woodland with gnarled rocky walls and stunning waterfalls. It feels like somewhere fairies would live!

This is not a long walk, and suitable for anyone; we passed loads of dogwalkers, families with children of all ages and even a couple of mountain bikers. The route is simple and there is a free car park at the start of the walk that is marked with a Puck's Glen signpost. I thought instead of rambling on about the route I'd share some of my snaps from the day. I hope you like them!

If you'd like some more information on the walk I'd recommend this page

Glen Donich Circuit, Lochgoilhead

To mark the start of Spring my mum and I brushed off the walking boots and dragged out the waterproof trousers (it may be Spring, but it is still Scotland), and headed for a new walk. We were looking for something that gave us a couple of hours of walking while also being sheltered by some woodland. What we decided on was the Glen Donich circular route from Lochgoilhead.

This was our first time at Lochgoilhead and after a slightly scary single track road from the Rest and Be Thankful we entered the village. We parked at the Arboretum car park on Hall Road which is opposite the fire station and primary school. The car park  has a large eagle carving and some nature/ walking guide boards. From the boards we headed right and into the trees. We continued left until the end of this path and then took the path to the right which looks like it is heading along a clearer route.

As we continued we saw some lovely views of Lochgoilhead to the right. On approaching a fence we followed the wooden signpost that pointed to the left indicating "Glen Donich". It was here that we bumped into some Highland Cows who were blocking the gate. Thankfully the cows were pretty chilled out and let us pass by without any drama.

Past the cows we continued on the path up to the left which starts to wind closer to the river, with the noise heightening. From this straight road we came to the rapids and waterfalls of the Donich Water. This is the half way point of the walk and a nice place to take a rest and snap some pictures. We continued across a footbridge and turned left into the forest above the falls. Once you've passed over a second bridge there is a little picnic table. From here there are views to the surrounding mountains through the forestry greens.

Follow the route back down to Lochgoilhead and gently stroll the rest of the way back to the carpark. Being a circular walk with signposts throughout this is a simple route but also a very enjoyable one. We accidently took one wrong turn and ended up on the route to Campbeltown, but thankfully with the walk being a circuit we quickly realised our error! We passed the odd dogwalker along the path but generally we were by ourselves. However, I can imagine this being a popular route with tourists and locals throughout the Summer months.

The Facts on the Glen Donich Circuit:

• We started from the Arboretum car park on Hall Road, Lochgoilhead. It is free to park here. 
• I saw signs in Lochgoilhead pointing to public toilets.
• Walking at leisurely pace this walk took us around 2 hours.
• Distance is around 5k.
• Difficult points: After passing the footbridge over the falls and rapids the path gets slightly steep. Nothing too difficult.
• Wear: Hiking/ hill walking boots and trousers that you don't mind getting a bit muddy.
• Perfect for anyone, from dogwalkers to those looking for a good Spring/ Autumn walk when  the weather is still changeable. 

Where to Eat: New York City

At the start of February I took my first trip to the United States for 7 nights in Manhattan. It was an amazing week and so hard to think of a highlight, but when people ask me "what was your one favourite thing" I have to say the food! I think I may have put on a stone in the process but dining in New York is awesome. All of the good stuff, too little time! Today I thought I'd share with you some of my eating highlights while I was there and some places I would recommend. I hope you're not too hungry...

Fast Food & Snacks
When I think of America I think of burgers and fast food; massive portions and McDonalds on every corner. I managed to avoid the McDonalds but definately got my burger fill.
First up, the best burger I have ever had:

SHAKE SHACK
We went to Grand Central for this one and queued for around 20 minutes. The original shop in Flatiron is currently getting done up but I think it'll be back open this summer. I still crave these burgers every day...

DUNKIN DONUTS
Although practically as common as McDonalds, Dunkin Donuts is a novelty to us Scots. These can be found everywhere and we had one on the corner of our street. We had to get the box of 6...

DOUGH
Talking about doughnuts, I'd highly recommend this little doughnut shop. More artisan than Dunkin' this place does lots of interesting flavoured doughnuts and in the shop we went to (there is a shop in both Flatiron District & Brooklyn) you could see the doughnuts being made in the back.

ZIEGFELD THEATER
Film and New York go hand in hand. As silly as it sounds, I actually felt weird there wasn't a soundtrack playing as I was walking around the streets. Anyway... back to food! When I think American movie theaters I think of those MASSIVE tubs of butter popcorn. We were so disappointed with the popcorn at a large AMC we had to leave it, but on the last night we discovered this place. Being one of the older cinemas in NY this place is beautiful. I could imagine Don Drapper catching a film here. And they also done massive tubs of butter popcorn! Possibly my favourite cinema, EVER.

Cafe
Coffee shops are everywhere in NYC, and they are always busy! Although I'm not a coffee drinker I can appreciate a nice cafe, and my boyfriend helped tell me how the coffee rated.

BIRCH COFFEE
This wee coffee shop was right next to our hotel and every day we would plan on popping in but there was never a table, until our last day when we managed to grab one! Boyfriend got a drip coffee and I got a tea. He enjoyed his and I loved mine (teabag was really cool and had been tied in a knot at the top).

BLUE BOTTLE COFFEE
Guess what, this place was also packed. This time it was filled with business men with fancy suits but we queued anyway. There was another drip coffee and I got a Cascara fizz which (I think) is tea and soda water with a lemon slice. It was delicious!

EATALY
This place is cool. I think the best way to describe it is as an Italian indoor marketplace. They have a lot of food stalls, some with cheeses, some with meats, some with deserts, as well as a restaurant. Also, there is a espresso bar and coffee shop area which we went to. You could eat every course in Eataly and has pretty much everything you want if you're craving Italian.

HARNEY & SONS TEA SHOP
After all the coffee shops it was nice to find somewhere that specialises in tea. And they have A LOT of tea.

Larger Meals 

COFFEE SHOP
I went here for my birthday breakfast and had an amazing pancake stack. One half of the cafe is a bar, while the other feels more like a Seinfeld diner. The portion sizes were great and the menu is full of delicious dishes for every course. They also have those jugs of refill coffee that make me feel like I'm in a TV show.

SHORTY'S
We went twice! This place specialises in Philly cheesesteaks (which are incredible) as well as being a sort of sports bar with TVs surrounding the walls and plenty of beer. The chips (fries) were also amazing. Drool!

BROOME STREET BAR
This is also a more casual bar/ restaurant but it has great portion sizes, delicious food and has a nice, relaxed atmosphere. This place reminded me of the type of bar/ restaurant you get in Scotland, with quick food and old characters sitting with their pints.

FLATIRON HALL
This place felt like the sort you'd go to for drinks after work if your job was in the creative sector. Or the place you'd grab food and a beer with friends before heading to a gig. Being a beer hall they do massive pretzels, cocktails and great burgers.

PAPATZUL
We stumbled on this little Mexican by accident but it was a good find. Compared with the average New York portion these Mexican plates are much more manageable, as well as giving a good Mexican kick of heat. They also do a happy hour and a pretty good sangria.