Conic Hill

This Sunday my mum and I decided it was time for another adventure so off we went to climb Conic Hill. And wow, what a view!

The route starts at Balmaha on the edge of Loch Lomond where you follow the signs for the West Highland Way just at the back of the car park. The route is fairly simple and well signposted with a steady climb through a woodland area and up quite a few wooden steps (you could definately feel these on your knees on the way back down). At this point when you come out of the trees you can see how high you are already and the views of the Loch below begin to emerge.

Continuing up more wooden and bouldery steps the view of the four peaks of Conic Hill unfolds. There are some lovely spots at this point where you can have a sit on the grass, a bite to eat and take in the views of the Loch and the mountains to the North. To get up to the peaks my mum and I followed the West Highland Way around the back of the "obvious path" and found a rough animal track through some heather. We actually didn't realise this was the right track at first as it didn't look as marked out as the rest of the route, but after walking a wee bit along the WHW and realising that we weren't really prepared for that sort of commitment just yet we turned around and ventured up the animal path. I'm really glad we done this as there was noone around and we managed to find a really peaceful spot amongst some mountain flowers to have a picnic.

The rough animal track path

From here we climbed up the first of the peaks. Once at the top we could see the other peaks in front of us and then the beautiful views of Loch Lomond, round to the South and the Campsie Fells and up towards Ben Lomond. We were very lucky to have picked a warm, sunny day and the visability was amazing with blue skies peppered with fluffy clouds all around. From this peak we ran down and then back up the next one. This was my personal favourite part of the walk as it gave you a break from climbing and rewarded you with some more stunning views. Again, we ran down this and up to the next 2 peaks. By this point we were feeling confident so decided to take the more "interesting" and adventurous route down- the stony edge of the last peak. I'll be honest, we ended up doing this on our bums as it was a bit steep and rocky; pebbles were tumbling down with each step we took! Although I think the more brave out there could have managed it more elegantly... we'll get there! We then followed the same path back down to the car park and enjoyed the last panoramic of the Loch. Apart from the rocky "cliff" the walk was very steady and although steep and a bit tiring at some bits I think all abillities would manage this happily! There were a lot of people when we went including families with children and dogs, large tourist groups, professional walkers with sticks and men in kilts. I'd recommend doing this walk on a nice clear day when your boots can properly grip the hill and the views go on for miles. Just remember, if the sun is out always wear sunscreen... even in Scotland!

The facts on climbing Conic Hill:

• Starting point is at the back of Balmaha car park on the East side of Loch Lomond.
• Toilets are 20p in the Balmaha tourist centre in the car park.
• Walk is around 4.5miles/7.5km.
• Takes around 2.5-3hours.
• Difficult points- steep initial climb up the steps and scramble back down from the peak.
• Wear- decent, comfortable shoes (trainers, hill walking boots etc) Kilts welcome
• Perfect for casual walkers, beginners and people who love a view.

Gone Girl by Gillian Flynn

With the film adaptation of Gillian Flynn's novel Gone Girl being released in October I thought now would be a good time to share my thoughts on the 2012 book and whether to read before viewing.

The book takes the form of 3 parts with each chapter alternating between the viewpoint of spouses Nick and Amy. The novel starts with the sudden disappearance of Amy with most eyes fixed on Nick as prime suspect. Each chapter flits between the present unfolding mystery of Amy's disappearance and the couple's happy history together. As the novel progresses tension between both narrators builds leaving the reader in the middle of a complicated and twisted marriage. In using this form I found it easier to empathise with both sides of the relationship and become engrossed in the tale.

By alternating between the central characters the narrative also pushes you forward, leaving you always wanting to read more. It was actually my mum who let me borrow the book so every couple of nights I would be chatting with her with all my guesses and puzzles. She thankfully didn't spoil it for me! I can see why she wanted to share it with me, it is the type of book you want to talk about and ponder over like a serial HBO drama. So much so that there are discussion questions at the end of the book to be considered for reading groups. Even 6 months after reading I think about Amy every so often and go over some plot points... No spoilers here!

At its heart Gone Girl is a thriller, a who-done-it, a what will happen next. But I think a large part of its individuality and appeal is that it is a balanced book between a husband and wife. Flynn gives both characters equal space and time to tell their stories and in doing so creates a believable, three dimensional marriage, which I believe appeals to women who perhaps had previously overlooked the thriller genre. In my view this form of storytelling also encourages us to question our own stereotypical views of gender expectations by subverting the cliches of gender politics and abuse.

It is hard to tell how the future film will impact on people's perceptions of the novel (I personally hope the film will have a feel of A History of Violence to it) but I would recommend reading it before the film releases to enjoy the twists and joy of guessing uninterrupted. Perhaps you could also encourage your mum to read it...

Guide to Porto

A rough guide to what I saw, ate and enjoyed over 10 days in the city of Porto in the North of Portugal.

We went to Porto at the start of June 2014 and spent 10 days in the city (3 of those at the festival- see my last post on this). We arrived by plane and our accommodation arranged for a transfer to the appartment for us. This took about 30minutes and cost 6euros per person which is a bargain! The metro also goes straight from the airport to the city centre, but we had some heavy bags and 2 flights so were feeling a bit lazy!

We stayed in a studio appartment near the Ribeira area of the city, which is in the old town/ downtown. This beautiful area is protected meaning the historic buildings and streets are well looked after, making it beautiful to look at but also where most tourists stay. There is plenty of accomodation in this area and suitable for all budgets. From our appartment it was a 5 minute walk down to the river Douro where you can look across to the city of Gaia and its port cellars.

Weather was warm and sunny but there was also a breeze and a coolness in the shade which made it comfortable to leisurely walk around. I also got away with wearing jeans most days which made me very happy. The city is built on hills and to walk anywhere you'll be working those legs. It is very easy to get around the city on foot despite this though. But if you do want to go further out, like to the beach, the public transport system is pretty easy to use. We got a 3 day pass which works on metros and buses for 15euros. There are also quite a few tourist buses and guide tours but we decided to explore by ourselves.

Walking around the city and admiring the architecture and historic scenary was one of my favourite things to do, everything is so pictureesque in the sunlight. A lot of the buildings' exteriors were coated in brightly coloured and decorated tiles which reflect the light amazingly. Even if architecture is not your scene I would recommend a quick visit to the train station. The walls inside are tiled with large blue and white images of country life and battles. How I would love to commute to work from that station every day.

A couple of other architecturally leaning tourist spots are Majestic Cafe and Livraria Lello. Although quite pricey and filled with tourists I would recommend Majestic for the classy atmosphere and the french toast. When inside you feel like you have went back in time and went up a full social class. Livraria Lello is a book shop with a pretty famous staircase (internet says it is the one a certain staircase in Harry Potter was based on...) You're not allowed to take photos inside except on Monday and Tuesday mornings but I saw a couple of tourists taking some not so sneaky snaps.

Food wise it is all about the Franchesinas. The traditional sandwich is not like any other. Normally filled with sausage, steak and ham between 2 slice of white bread then covered in cheese in a pool of beer and tomato gravy this is not a lunchtime snack! Oh and it also comes with chips and you should really have some beer with it. It is mighty and I admit to not managing all of mine but it is very satisfying after a day of climbing hills.These can be found in a lot of restaurants in the Ribeira area and are very affordable.

Other popular dishes are steak and seafood. I was surprised to learn that chicken is not as popular and not on many menus. Duoro wine, Sangria and Port are also very popular. Some places to eat that we enjoyed were Presto Pizza (banana and apple on a pizza! and a really nice, casual feel- we went twice!), Mercado (a modern eatery with a twist on traditional dishes as well as nice deserts and sweets in jars at the end of your meal) and Casa Grande (a lunchtime coffee shop that makes their own chocolate and amazing hot chocolate). There are also a lot of bakeries and little cake shops dotted around the place which are really affordable and filled with an amazing selection.

To get to the beach you can get the 500 bus from across from the train station. This takes about 40 minutes and you get off just after Sea Life, next to the city park. The day we went it was too cold to go in the water and as it is the Atlantic I've heard it is pretty chilly but there were a lot of people out surfing with a surf school nearby if that is your thing.

We also had a day across the river in Gaia. We walked across the top of the bridge which actually freaked me out a little at the height. However, the views are amazing. I'd recommend it if you're braver than me! In Gaia we went to a few of the wine cellars and done a couple of tastings which was a great experience as we had never drank Port before. I thought it might be a bit awkward but the guides were very friendly and spoke fluent English. I'd recommend Taylors for a more grown up experience and Sandeman if you're looking for something a bit more fun. Although, the tastings we had only cost a couple of euros so if you have time you could try a few!

I never knew much about Porto before going and this was our first trip to Portugal but it didn't take us long to find our feet. I'd recommend it for a long weekend or even for a bit longer like we did. We done a lot of walking and relaxing and took our time wandering round the city. This is just a rough guide to the highlights and bits I can remember but if you'd like any more specific information please let me know and I'll try to help.

Oh, and if it helps we're a young couple in our early twenties but we saw all sorts of tourists from older couples, backpackers and families. I just wouldn't recommend wearing heels for walking around!

Nos Primavera Sound, Porto 2014

A quick guide to what happens when you choose Porto over Barcelona...

Having been to Primavera Sound in Barcelona twice before we decided to visit its sister festival this year: Nos (previously Optimus) Primavera Sound. This smaller festival is held in Parque da Cidade, Porto and spanned 3 days; not as long or packed as the Barca version but still enough time for a good variety of acts! Similarly to the larger festival, most of the performances started around 5pm, going on to about 4am. Held in the city park the venue is not as instantly stunning (it'd be hard to find a more beautiful stage than Ray Ban !) but it does have its own individual appeal. A perk definitely included the relaxed, grassy setting and being able stretch out on a grassy hill while watching the bands. It was clear the organisers knew this as they passed out free blankets in bags for early guests. I think they had done this last year aswell so I'd recommend getting in early on the first day to pick one up.

The 4 stages were all pretty close with the 2 main stages (Nos and Superbock) being so close that bands played alternately at them. Good point- less chance of clashes. Bad point- there is a big rush when one band ends and you need to get to the other stage. Also, people started standing pretty early for the larger bands; I think National fans were there about 75mins before the set which meant the more bands you wanted to see the further back you'd end up being. Pitchfork stage was the only one  in a tent which was great for the lights and a concentrated sound. The last stage was ATP which was slightly smaller than ATP in Barcelona but still relatively big with a good bit of space for walking around and viewing. To me each stage had great sound and the lighting was amazing which was brilliantly shown in Mogwai's set.

I'm not going to go in to much detail about the bands as the line-up was very similar to Barcelona, just not as large. But my highlights included Mogwai, St Vincent, Jagwar Ma and Neutral Milk Hotel. Although, I honestly don't think I've ever seen a band performance at a Primavera festival! The sunshine and beautiful surroundings must really bring out the best in bands...

Audience wise Barcelona Primavera has a very mixed crowd from my experience with a lot of British, Spanish and American visitors. Being a smaller festival the number of foreign visitors to the Portugese festival seemed to be a lot fewer and a few of the food stall workers did not speak English, but did offer some great food! (Although not as many Vegetarian and Vegan options as I remember Barcelona having).

 If the practical details are what sways you here are some of the things I learned over the 3 days:

• To get to the festival we got the 500 bus near Sao Bento metro stop. The bus gets very busy so its best to get on the bus as early on the route as you can.
• We bought 3 day bus passes from the tourist information near Trindade metro. It is much easier having your tickets in advance than buying on the bus.
• Beep your ticket when you get on the bus until it flashes green. Fines are high so don't forget!
• The bus from Sao Bento to the park is about 45 mins. Try and take water.
• No water allowed in the park and they check your bag.
• To get back to the centre/ downtown there are special buses running one after the other. You need your ticket for this aswell. 
• If you want beer I hope you like Superbock.
• If you don't there is also sangria and wine. 
• Take a jumper for the night. Winds got quite strong as we're near the Atlantic Ocean.

Both festivals share the Primavera name and a similar vibe flows through both; relaxed while being passionate about good music. But with a sea of picnic blankets and wooden swings Porto is a more understated festival, the surroundings are gentle and calming and the crowds friendly.

If you're interested in what Porto as a city has to offer I'll be doing another post on what I got up to on the non-festival days.

Have you been to Porto Primavera? Would you give it a go instead of Barcelona?